Pokhara's mirror: painted wooden boats, a pagoda temple on a tiny island, and on a clear morning the Fishtail peak floating upside down in the water.
Phewa is Nepal's second-largest lake and the reason Pokhara's Lakeside district exists. Its eastern shore is a strip of cafés and guesthouses; the rest is forest, farmland and the steep ridge of the Peace Pagoda.
The classic outing is to hire one of the painted wooden doonga boats and row out to Tal Barahi, a small two-tiered pagoda temple on an island near the shore, dedicated to the goddess Barahi. On Saturdays it is busy with families bringing offerings.
The lake is best at the edges of the day. At dawn the water is often flat calm and, when the clouds stay away, Machhapuchhre and the Annapurnas appear reflected in it. In the evening the hills turn copper and the boats drift home.
Paddle away from Lakeside and it changes completely: the far shores are fishing villages, jungle and the odd lakeside teahouse.
Out at dawn, back at sunset.
Walk down to the boat stands before breakfast, when the lake is flattest and the peaks are most likely to be out.
Take a boat to the island, ring the temple bell and walk the little circuit around the shrine.
Row across to the southern shore and climb to the stupa, or leave the boat and walk up through the forest.
Follow the shore path north from Lakeside towards Khahare and Pame, where the town thins out into paddy fields.
Find a lakeside café, or take a boat out again, and watch the light go off the hills.
Boat stands line the Lakeside shore with posted hourly rates. You can row yourself or pay a little more for a boatman.
Mornings are calmest and clearest; afternoon winds can make rowing hard work, especially in spring.
Remove your shoes at Tal Barahi and walk clockwise around the shrine. Wear the life jacket you're given.
Pokhara practical notes →Photographs by Wanderlines and from Wikimedia Commons under their licences.
