Pokhara without the crowds: a lakeshore path, a ridge between two lakes with paddy fields falling away on both sides, small farms and village tea shops, and grilled fish by the water for lunch.
Begnas is the second-largest of the Pokhara valley's lakes, half an hour east of Lakeside. Its smaller neighbour Rupa lies just beyond a narrow forested ridge called Sundari Danda, "beautiful ridge".
The walk starts at the Begnas bus stop by the dam and fish farms and follows the lakeshore, then climbs the ridge between Begnas and Rupa through paddy fields, orange trees and small farms. From the top both lakes are in view, and on clear days the Annapurna range stands behind them.
Drop down to the Rupa side and loop back along field paths and village tracks. Pair the walk with lunch at a lakeside fish restaurant, or rent a boat on Begnas afterwards. Almost no tourists, even in high season.
Paths are unsigned but obvious; ask in villages for "Rupa tal" or "Begnas tal".
From the bus stop, walk to the dam at the lake's southern end, with its boat stands and fish restaurants.
Follow the path along the western shore past fish farms and fields, the water on one side and wooded hills on the other.
Climb through paddy terraces and farms to the ridge, with both lakes in view and the mountains beyond.
Descend towards the smaller, reedier Rupa Lake, a good place for birdwatching.
Return over a low saddle or along village tracks to the bazaar for fried or grilled lake fish.
.jpg?width=960)
Local buses run from Pokhara's Prithvi Chowk area to Begnas bazaar; a taxi takes about 30–45 minutes from Lakeside.
Lakeside restaurants at the dam serve fresh fish from the lake with rice and pickles.
Paths cross people's fields and yards: keep to the bunds, and greet with a "namaste".
Pokhara practical notes →
A boat, a forest path and a stupa.
Sunrise and a ridge to Naudanda.
A clearing facing the Fishtail.
Rhododendron forest above the lake.
The classic short trek.
The community-lodge alternative.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
.jpg){kind=link}
