Most visitors drive up for sunrise. Walk instead: stone steps through villages and terraced fields to the viewing tower, the whole range from Dhaulagiri to Annapurna II lit pink at dawn, and then west along the ridge to Naudanda.
Sarangkot is the hill that rises straight above the north end of Phewa Lake, and its summit is Pokhara's grandstand for the Annapurnas, as well as the launch point for the paragliders that circle over the lake all day.
Walkers can climb from the north end of Lakeside. The route is a steady 800 metres of stone steps and paths through villages, past houses, goats and terraced fields, and reaches the viewing tower in two to three hours. Start before dawn with a torch to be there for sunrise, when Machapuchare's twin summit catches the light first.
From Sarangkot, most people go back down. Instead, continue west along the ridge past Kaskikot, the ruins of an old hill fort, to Naudanda, a longer and quieter day with the full range in view the whole way. Buses run back to Pokhara from Naudanda.
Up in the dark, along the ridge in the morning light, down by bus.
From the north end of Lakeside, find the trail up behind the houses near Bindabasini road; locals will point the way to Sarangkot.
Stone steps climb through villages and terraced fields, with the lake falling away behind you.
Pay the small fee and climb the tower, or find a quieter spot along the ridge, for sunrise over Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, Machapuchare and Annapurna II.
Walk west along the ridge to the hilltop of Kaskikot, seat of an old principality, with a temple and the range ahead of you.
Descend gently to Naudanda on the Pokhara–Baglung highway and wave down a bus back to the city.
Sunrise is around 6am in autumn and nearer 7am in midwinter. Leave Lakeside at least three hours earlier if walking up.
Local buses and jeeps run along the Baglung road from Naudanda through the day; taxis can be called from Sarangkot.
Tandem flights launch from just below the summit and land by the lake: a fast way down if you fancy it.
Pokhara practical notes →
A boat, a forest path and a white stupa.
Big views for a small climb.
Rhododendrons and community lodges.
The classic short teahouse trek.
Up a ridge to face the Fishtail.
Into the Sanctuary.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
