Up a deep river gorge through villages, bamboo and rhododendron, past the Fishtail's base, and into the Sanctuary: a high glacial amphitheatre ringed by Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Gangapurna and Machapuchare.
The Annapurna Sanctuary is a bowl of glaciers enclosed by a ring of great peaks, reached by a single narrow gorge between Hiunchuli and Machapuchare. Few trekking destinations feel so enclosed and so enormous.
The route climbs the Modi Khola gorge past the Gurung villages of Ghandruk and Chhomrong, the last proper village, then through bamboo and rhododendron forest to Deurali and Machapuchare Base Camp at about 3,700 metres. A final two hours brings you to Annapurna Base Camp at 4,130 metres, below the south face of Annapurna I (8,091 m).
From the lodges, the walls of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Gangapurna and the Fishtail close the horizon on every side, and the first light at dawn turns them gold one by one. Most foreign trekkers in the conservation area must now walk with a licensed guide. Build in a spare day for altitude.
A typical nine-day itinerary, with a spare day for weather or altitude.
Jeep to the trailhead, climb to Ghandruk, then over Kimrong Danda to Chhomrong, a village on a steep spur facing Annapurna South.
Down the Chhomrong steps, over the river and up through Sinuwa, Bamboo and Dovan's dense forest to Himalaya Hotel and Deurali.
Through the gorge's upper reaches to Machapuchare Base Camp, then up the moraine to Annapurna Base Camp for sunset.
Watch the walls light up, visit the memorial stupas and the glacier edge, then descend to Bamboo.
Back to Chhomrong and down to Jhinu Danda's riverside hot springs, then out to the road and Pokhara.
ACAP permit required; most foreign trekkers must hire a licensed guide. Pokhara agencies arrange guides, porters and permits.
Teahouses all the way to ABC, with set menus and rising prices above Chhomrong. Lodges above Bamboo can be full in October: start early each day.
Above Chhomrong, the Sanctuary is sacred to the Gurung: no meat is carried or sold beyond a certain point.
Pokhara practical notes →
The quieter ridge across the valley.
The community-run alternative.
Combine with ABC via Tadapani.
A gentle warm-up.
A short trek from the lake.
A rest-day walk in town.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
