When the coastal railway moved inland, it left behind a line of tunnels cut along the cliffs. Now they carry walkers, families and bikes from Levanto's beach to Bonassola and Framura: flat, lit, cool on hot days, with windows in the rock opening straight onto the sea.
After the steps of the Cinque Terre, this is the walk your knees will thank you for: six kilometres without a single climb, most of it in the cool of the tunnels.
The original Genoa to La Spezia railway, opened in the 1870s, ran right along the shore here on a single track through a chain of tunnels. When the line was doubled and moved inland in the 20th century, the old tunnels were abandoned, and in recent years the towns turned them into a walking and cycling path known as the Maremonti. It runs north from Levanto, the beach town just outside the national park, to Bonassola and on to Framura, through around nine tunnels.
The tunnels are lit and wide, with arched windows cut in the seaward wall that frame little coves and turquoise water. Between them the path comes out into the sun above rocky beaches you can climb down to for a swim. It is perfect for children, pushchairs, bikes and anyone who wants the sea without the effort.
North from Levanto. Walk back the same way or take the train: all three towns are on the coastal line.
The path begins at the northern end of Levanto's long sandy beach, near the old station area, with bike-hire shops nearby. The first tunnel swallows you almost at once.
A sequence of tunnels, some long and gently curving, with arched openings onto the sea. Between them, short open stretches cross small coves and rocky beaches with steps down to the water. Look back for Punta Mesco closing the view to the south.
The path comes out at Bonassola, a quiet village round a curving beach. Walk out along the rocks at the western end to the little white chapel of the Madonnina della Punta for the view, then take a coffee on the seafront.
The second half is quieter, through more tunnels to Framura, whose station sits almost inside the rock above a small cove. Paths lead down to tiny harbours and pebble coves for a swim. Train back to Levanto in a few minutes, or walk.
Levanto is four minutes by train from Monterosso and the northern terminus of the Cinque Terre Express shuttles. Bonassola and Framura are the next stops north on the regional line, so you can walk one way and ride back.
Several shops in Levanto rent bikes, e-bikes and child seats by the hour or day. Cycling the whole path and back takes about an hour with stops, making it an easy half-day with a swim at Bonassola.
Walk over Punta Mesco from Monterosso to Levanto in the morning, have lunch in Levanto, and cycle the old railway in the afternoon. Levanto is also the cheaper base for the whole coast, with a proper town and hotels at half the villages' prices.
The Punta Mesco walk →
The high ridge from Portovenere to Levanto, and the headland walk over Punta Mesco.
The coastal Blue Path from Monterosso to Vernazza and Corniglia.
Manarola to Volastra to Corniglia, through the terraces and the heart of the wine country.
The flat, paved Lovers' Way cut into the cliff between Riomaggiore and Manarola.
Five pilgrim paths, one up from each village, to churches with the coast at their feet.
A three-hour walk round the island facing Portovenere, with a swim at Pozzale.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their Creative Commons licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence. Click a title for the original, its author and licence.
