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A clifftop path above the Tasman Sea between two black-sand beaches, through flax and wind-bent bush, with surf booming below and, at the end, thousands of gannets nesting on the rocks at Muriwai.
The Waitākere coast is everything downtown Auckland isn't: black iron-sand beaches, roaring surf, steep green headlands and almost no buildings.
The Te Henga Walkway starts at Te Henga / Bethells Beach, a wide black-sand beach backed by dunes and the Waiti stream, and climbs onto the cliffs heading north. The path stays high above the Tasman for most of its length, through flax, mānuka and wind-shaped bush, with views down to sea stacks and empty coves, before descending towards Muriwai.
The finish is near the gannet colony at Otakamiro Point, one of the few mainland gannet colonies in New Zealand, where Australasian gannets nest on the clifftops and the stack of Motutara from August to March. Ten kilometres one way; arrange a lift.
Walk south to north so the gannets are your reward.
From the Bethells Beach car park, head north to the start of the walkway near the Waiti stream mouth.
Steps climb onto the headland and the path runs along the cliff edge through flax and low bush.
The most dramatic stretch, with views north along the coast and surf crashing far below.
The path descends through farmland and bush to the road end above Muriwai.
Walk to the viewing platforms above the colony, where the birds wheel and squabble just metres away.
No buses reach either end: leave a car at each end or arrange a pickup. Muriwai is about 45 minutes from the city.
Some Waitākere tracks close for kauri dieback or slips: check Auckland Council's track status page first.
Stay back from the cliff edges, which are unstable, and don't walk the beaches at high tide.
Auckland practical notes →
The next beach south.
Lava and caves on a young volcano.
Harbour to harbour.
Tunnels and skyline views.
Off-grid island walking.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
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