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The wild outer island of the gulf: a few hundred people, no mains power, kauri forest climbing to a rocky summit, hot springs steaming in the bush, empty surf beaches, and night skies so dark the island is an international sanctuary.
Aotea, "white cloud", is the largest island in the Hauraki Gulf, 90 km north-east of Auckland. It was logged and mined, then largely left alone, and much of it is now conservation land.
The Aotea Track is a 25 km circuit of the island's forested heart, with two DOC huts, climbing to Hirakimatā / Mount Hobson at 627 metres on steep boardwalks and stairs, with views over both coasts. Along the way are old kauri dams from the logging days and the Kaitoke hot springs, a natural hot stream in the bush, reachable on an easy track on their own.
The east coast has long, empty surf beaches at Medlands and Kaitoke; the west is a maze of sheltered harbours. In 2017 the island became one of the first Dark Sky Sanctuaries in the world. Off-grid and worth two nights.
A sample plan: summit, hot springs, beach and stars.
Arrive at Tryphena by ferry or Claris by plane, pick up a rental car, and head for your bach or campsite.
Climb Hirakimatā from Windy Canyon or Whangaparapara Road, with kauri, rocky outcrops and views over both coasts.
An easy hour's walk through wetland and bush to soak in the warm stream.
Walk the long white sweep of Medlands, swim, and watch for dolphins offshore.
Join a local dark-sky tour, or simply lie on the beach: there are almost no lights on the island.
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Car ferries sail from Auckland to Tryphena several times a week in about 4.5 hours; small planes fly to Claris in about 30 minutes.
Hire a car or arrange shuttles in advance: there's no public transport, and roads are winding and partly gravel.
Clean boots and check gear before you go: the island is free of several mainland pests.
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The gulf's youngest island.
West coast clifftops.
Waterfall and surf.
Across the city on foot.
Devonport's volcanoes.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
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