Auckland's youngest volcano, erupted from the sea about 600 years ago: a ferry ride, a climb over black lava fields and through pōhutukawa forest to the crater rim, the whole city spread below, and caves where the lava once flowed underground.
Rangitoto's perfect, gently sloping cone is on every Auckland skyline. It is the youngest and largest of the city's volcanoes, and Māori living on neighbouring Motutapu watched it erupt.
From the wharf, a well-made track climbs through raw lava fields and the largest pōhutukawa forest in the world to the 260-metre crater rim in about an hour. A boardwalk circles the forested crater, and the summit lookout takes in the gulf, the city and the islands. On the way down, a side track leads to the lava caves, tubes left when the surface of a flow cooled while molten rock drained out below. Bring a torch to walk through them.
The island is a pest-free scientific reserve with no shops and no residents. Ferries run two or three times a day, the last one leaves mid-afternoon, and rangers count heads. Black lava in summer is hot underfoot and there is no water on the island.
Up the summit road track, down with the cave detour.
Pass the old baches near the wharf and the biosecurity notices, then join the summit track.
The track crosses fields of jagged scoria where plants are still colonising the bare rock.
A boardwalk and steps climb to the summit lookout above the forested crater.
Take the signed side track to the caves and walk through the tubes with a torch, ducking in places.
Return to the wharf in good time for your ferry, or detour to the coastal track at Islington Bay.
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Ferries leave from the downtown ferry terminal, some calling at Devonport. Book ahead in summer and note the last return sailing.
Check bags, shoes and clothing for seeds, soil, rodents and insects before you board: the island is pest-free.
Catch the first ferry: the track is cooler, and you'll have time for the caves before the last boat.
Auckland practical notes →
Devonport's volcanoes and tunnels.
Across the isthmus over two volcanic cones.
Nīkau palms, a waterfall and the west coast.
Cliffs between two black-sand beaches.
The wild outer island of the gulf.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
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