Ten minutes from Antigua, cloud-forest trails buzz with hummingbirds; a day's drive north, the misty Verapaz forests hide Guatemala's national bird, the resplendent quetzal, its tail streamers longer than its body.
Guatemala has over 700 bird species, and the quetzal is on its flag, its coat of arms and its currency. Seeing one takes a little effort.
Close to town, Finca El Pilar is a private reserve on the hills east of Antigua, about ten minutes by tuk-tuk. Feeders by the entrance draw a dozen species of hummingbird, and trails climb through cloud forest where motmots swing their racket tails and trogons sit quietly in the shade. Go early, when the birds are most active.
The quetzal lives in wetter, higher forest. The resplendent quetzal needs a trip north to Alta Verapaz, best from February to May, when males with full tail plumes court and nest. The Biotopo del Quetzal on the road to Cobán and the community reserve at Chelemhá are the classic places, with trails through moss-draped forest and guides who know the fruiting avocado trees.
A morning near town, then a few days north if the quetzal calls.
Arrive at opening and sit by the hummingbird feeders at the entrance as the birds wake.
Climb the trails into the forest for motmots, trogons and views back over Antigua and the volcanoes.
Travel north via Guatemala City to the cloud forests on the Cobán road and check in to a lodge near the reserves.
Go out with a local guide at first light to the fruiting trees where quetzals feed.
Walk the Biotopo del Quetzal's loops past waterfalls and tree ferns before heading on to Cobán or back south.
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Take a tuk-tuk from Antigua's centre; pay the entrance fee at the gate. Mornings are best, and quiet voices see more birds.
Community guides at the reserves know where quetzals are feeding that week; hire one, it transforms your chances.
Shuttles and pullman buses run from Guatemala City to Cobán, passing the Biotopo del Quetzal on the way.
Antigua practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
