The easy volcano: a wide forest trail to black, still-warm lava fields beneath a smoking cone, marshmallows toasted in the vents, and the classic view west across the valley to Agua, Fuego and Acatenango.
Pacaya has erupted on and off since 1965, and its 2021 eruption sent fresh lava rivers down the flank. The fields you walk over are younger than most smartphones.
The walk starts at San Francisco de Sales, about 90 minutes south-east of Antigua, and follows a wide trail through forest and farmland to the edge of the lava fields below the 2,552-metre cone. The ground is warm underfoot, the 2021 flows are still dark and glassy, and steam leaks from cracks where guides roast marshmallows.
Morning and sunset tours both run; the sunset tour shows the valley glowing gold and, on lucky days, Fuego erupting across it. Horses are available at the gate for anyone who would rather ride. The summit itself is closed; the view across the valley to Agua and Fuego is the point.
A steady climb on a broad path; guides set the pace.
Pay the entrance fee, meet your local guide, and decline or accept a horse from the waiting riders.
The steepest part is through forest and fields on soft volcanic soil, with views opening to the north.
Leave the trees for an open ridge with the black cone of Pacaya rising ahead.
Walk out onto the 2021 flows, feel the warmth of the rock, and roast marshmallows over the cracks.
Look west across the valley to the three great volcanoes, then descend the same way.
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Antigua agencies run morning (around 6am) and afternoon (around 2pm) shuttles, guide included; the park fee is paid separately at the gate.
Local riders offer horses up the hill for a fee negotiated at the gate; they also follow walkers in case they tire.
Children at the gate rent wooden sticks for a few quetzales; the descent is slippery.
Antigua practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
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