Antigua's two gentle outings: a forty-minute climb to the stone cross above town for the postcard view of Agua over the colonial grid, and a half day on foot through coffee and macadamia between the villages on the volcano's lower slopes.
The paved path starts at the north end of 1a Avenida and climbs through pine woods, with benches along the way, to a stone cross on a terrace above the town. Below lies Antigua's grid of red roofs and ruined churches, with the cone of Volcán de Agua filling the sky behind. Come at eight in the morning, when the volcano is clearest, or at sunset. Tourist police patrol the path. Daylight hours only.
South of town, lanes wind between Ciudad Vieja, site of the short-lived first capital, San Juan del Obispo, with the hilltop palace of Guatemala's first bishop, and Santa María de Jesús higher on the slope, through shade-grown coffee, avocado and macadamia, with the volcano above and the valley below. Tuk-tuk out, walk between them, bus back.
One for an early morning, one for a slow half day.
From the north end of 1a Avenida Norte, follow the paved path and steps up through the woods.
Reach the cross and the statue of Santiago, with the town and Agua spread out below; return the same way.
Take a tuk-tuk to Ciudad Vieja and its colonial church on the plaza.
Walk the lanes uphill through coffee and fruit trees to San Juan del Obispo and its church and palace with the valley view.
Continue to Santa María de Jesús for its market and Agua's summit above, then catch a chicken bus back to Antigua.
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Walk the Cerro de la Cruz path in daylight; the tourist police patrol it and will accompany you on request.
Agree the fare before you set off; Ciudad Vieja is about 15 minutes from Antigua's centre.
Chicken buses back to Antigua leave Santa María de Jesús frequently until early evening.
Antigua practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
