Over the 3,400-metre pass of Cerro de la Muerte and down into a narrow valley of oak forest and trout streams, where at half past five in the morning resplendent quetzals sit in the wild avocado trees beside the road.
San Gerardo de Dota is a hamlet of trout farms and lodges in the valley of the Savegre river, and probably the most reliable place in Central America to see a resplendent quetzal.
It lies about two hours south of San José over Cerro de la Muerte on the Inter-American Highway. Los Quetzales National Park trails start at the ranger station on the highway; tickets cost about US$10 and are booked online. But the best birding is lower, along the valley road and lodge trails at dawn, where local guides know which wild avocado trees are fruiting that week. Guides charge around US$30–50 per person.
Beyond quetzals, look for emerald toucanets, flame-coloured tanagers, acorn woodpeckers and a dozen hummingbirds. It works as a long day trip, but staying overnight is much better, and the dawn is cold, about 5°C. Stay a night and be out at half past five.
Arrive in the afternoon, bird at dawn, walk the river after breakfast.
Drive south on the Inter-American Highway over Cerro de la Muerte and turn off down the steep road into the valley.
Eat fresh trout at your lodge and book your guide for the morning.
Meet your guide on the valley road at first light and wait by a fruiting avocado tree for the quetzals to arrive.
Walk the river trails to the waterfall below the village, through oak forest full of tanagers and hummingbirds.
On the way back, walk the short park trails from the ranger station on the highway before driving home.
A rental car or day driver is easiest; buses to San Isidro stop at the valley turn-off, from where lodges can collect you.
Book park entry through the SINAC website before you go; there is no cash at the ranger station.
Lodges in the valley range from simple cabins to comfortable hotels; most arrange guides and early breakfasts.
San José practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
