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Two kinds of day out from the capital: the dripping river forest of Tapantí, Costa Rica's wettest national park, and the bare, windy rims of Irazú and Poás, where you look down into steaming craters from above the clouds.
East of Cartago, the Orosi valley climbs into the Talamanca mountains and some of the wettest forest in the country. North and east of the city, two volcanoes let you walk to the edge of their craters.
Tapantí lies beyond the coffee town of Orosi and receives several metres of rain a year. The Oropéndola loop, about 3 km along the river, and the Árboles Caídos trail, about 2 km, make a five-kilometre morning through dripping forest, with waterfalls, oropendola nests, and tapir tracks and tarantulas possible. Book tickets online through SINAC.
For a cold, windy alternative, Irazú's flat gravel rim walks at 3,400 metres look into a grey crater and, on clear mornings, to both oceans. At Poás, a paved 600-metre path leads to the crater lookout over its acid lake and fumaroles. The rims are short; add Barva's forest trails below for a longer day.
Each makes a morning; pair Irazú with Tapantí via Cartago.
Drive up from Cartago to arrive at opening, walk the rim paths to the main crater lookout before cloud rises.
Descend through Cartago to the Orosi valley for lunch and its colonial church.
Walk the 3 km Oropéndola loop along the river, then the 2 km Árboles Caídos trail through dripping forest.
Finish at the lookout facing a waterfall across the valley.
On a separate morning, take the paved path at Poás to the edge of its steaming acid lake.
Buy tickets for all three parks on the SINAC website in advance; Poás uses timed entry slots.
A car or day driver is easiest; buses run from San José to Irazú and Poás at weekends only, and to Orosi daily.
Be at the crater parks for opening; by 10am cloud often hides the craters completely.
San José practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
