The roof of Costa Rica: a long climb from coffee farms through oak forest and cloud forest to a high páramo of glacial lakes and jagged crests, and a summit at dawn from which, on the rarest mornings, you can see both the Pacific and the Caribbean.
At 3,821 metres, Chirripó is the highest mountain in Costa Rica and in southern Central America. Its summit area was shaped by glaciers in the last ice age, leaving a cluster of small lakes in the páramo.
The trek starts from San Gerardo de Rivas, 3.5–5 hours south of San José. A relentless 19-kilometre trail climbs about 2,000 metres through pasture, oak forest and cloud forest to the Base Crestones lodge at 3,400 metres. The next morning, a pre-dawn walk of about 5 km crosses the páramo and the Valle de los Conejos to the summit for sunrise, over the glacial lakes of Chirripó and Las Morenas and the rock towers of the Crestones.
Permits must be booked months ahead through SINAC, with beds and meals at the lodge. The season runs from January to April. A separate trip for January to April, mentioned here so nobody tries it as a day out.
Two or three days; three gives a spare morning for the Crestones.
Arrive the afternoon before, confirm your permit at the ranger office and sleep early.
Start at dawn up steep farm tracks, then into oak forest to the Llano Bonito rest stop.
Continue through cloud forest and burnt-over páramo, past the Monte Sin Fe climb, to the lodge at 3,400 m.
Walk about 5 km by headtorch through the Valle de los Conejos and up the final rocks for sunrise at 3,821 m.
Return to the lodge for breakfast, then descend to San Gerardo, or stay a second night and explore the Crestones.
Book the park permit and lodge beds through SINAC as soon as dates open; dry-season weekends sell out months ahead.
Buses run from San José to San Isidro de El General, then local buses or taxis to San Gerardo de Rivas.
Horse services in San Gerardo can carry bags up to the lodge for a fee; book the day before.
San José practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
