Walk into Rome the way pilgrims from Canterbury have for a thousand years: from the edge of the city through a wild valley of cork oaks, up onto Monte Mario for the first sight of St Peter's dome, and down into the great square.
The Via Francigena is the old pilgrim road from Canterbury to Rome, about 2,000 km across England, France, Switzerland and Italy. Its last day starts at La Storta, a suburb on the old Via Cassia, and ends at the tomb of St Peter.
It is a surprisingly green walk. Soon after La Storta the path drops into the Insugherata nature reserve, a valley of cork oaks, meadows and streams hidden among the northern suburbs. Beyond, it climbs to the Monte Mario nature reserve on the highest hill in Rome. From its viewpoint, the city spreads out below and the dome of St Peter's rises ahead, the same view that has made pilgrims weep for centuries.
The final kilometres descend through city streets to the colonnades of Bernini's St Peter's Square. Pilgrims with a credential collect their certificate at the sacristy.
Waymarked as the Via Francigena. Some sections run along busy roads; take care.
From La Storta station follow the Via Francigena signs south, past the chapel where Ignatius of Loyola had a famous vision on his way to Rome.
The route enters the reserve and follows tracks along a quiet valley of woods and fields. Muddy after rain; easy to forget you are in a capital city.
Climb through the Monte Mario reserve to the viewpoint below the old observatory. The whole of Rome lies below, with the dome of St Peter's straight ahead.
Descend through the Della Vittoria and Prati districts to Via di Porta Angelica and into Bernini's colonnade. Visit the basilica and, with a credential, ask at the sacristy for your certificate.
The FL3 regional train runs to La Storta in about 30 minutes from Ostiense, Trastevere or San Pietro stations.
To receive the pilgrim certificate you need a credential (pilgrim passport) stamped along the way. Rules on minimum distance apply; check with the Vatican's pilgrim office.
Expect security queues at St Peter's, and a dress code. Arrive in the afternoon after the morning crowds.
Rome practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
