A deep blue lake in an ancient volcano, ringed by woods and crowned by the Pope's summer town. Walk the shore or the crater rim, climb to the old Roman road on Monte Cavo, and finish with porchetta and local white wine in the hill towns.
South-east of Rome, the Alban Hills are the remains of a great volcano. Two of its craters hold lakes: Albano, large and deep, and Nemi, small and round. The towns on their rims, the Castelli Romani, have been Rome's summer escape since antiquity.
Castel Gandolfo, perched on the western rim, has been the popes' summer residence for centuries; parts of its palace and gardens are now open to visitors. From the town, paths drop to the lakeshore, where a flat route runs along the water among woods, boathouses and swimming spots. Parts of the lakeside path have been closed by landslips, so check locally.
For a bigger day, follow the rim round the lake, about 350 metres of climbing on wooded paths, or head up from Rocca di Papa to Monte Cavo, the old sacred mountain of the Latins, on a stretch of Roman paving. Nemi, above the smaller lake, has Caligula's ships and wild strawberries.
Choose the flat shoreline loop or the higher rim. Paths are not always well signed; a map app helps.
From the station, climb to the piazza in front of the Apostolic Palace for the view down into the crater.
Descend to the lake and follow the road and paths along the eastern shore, past lidos, boat clubs and woods.
Paths through chestnut and oak woods follow the rim, with views down to the water and across to Monte Cavo.
Return to the town for the evening light on the lake. For more, take the bus to Ariccia for porchetta, or to Nemi on its smaller crater.
The FL4 regional train runs from Roma Termini to Castel Gandolfo in about 45 minutes. Cotral buses link the Castelli towns.
Landslips have closed parts of the lakeside path in recent years. Follow local signs and don't climb over barriers.
Ariccia's fraschette, rustic taverns, serve porchetta, cheese and local wine. Frascati's whites are the classic of the hills.
Wine in the guide →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
