A crescent bay where green turtles graze on seagrass in two metres of water, and a lagoon next door where the fish gather where fresh and salt water mix.
Akumal means "place of the turtles" in Maya, and the name still fits. Green turtles feed on the seagrass in the shallow, reef-sheltered bay all year round.
Because so many people came to see them, the bay is now managed: snorkelling in the turtle area is done in designated zones, usually with a registered guide and a life jacket, and the number of swimmers is controlled. The rules are there because the turtles kept leaving.
Next door, the Yal-Kú lagoon is a long rocky inlet where fresh water from the aquifer meets the sea. The mixing layers shimmer, and the water is full of parrotfish, sergeant majors and the occasional ray.
From May to October, turtles nest on the beaches at night. The local ecological centre runs night patrols you can join.
Early morning is calmest.
Get to the bay before the tour vans arrive.
Join a registered guide and float above the grazing turtles.
Breakfast at a beach café under the palms.
Drive a few minutes north and snorkel the lagoon.
Or continue south to the cenotes or Tulum.
Colectivos south from Playa stop at the Akumal turn-off; it's a short walk to the bay.
Expect fees for parking, beach access, guides and Yal-Kú; bring cash.
Sunscreen is restricted in Yal-Kú; cover up with a shirt instead.
Playa del Carmen practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
