A long public beach of surf schools and sunsets, and a little hidden cove in the trees for snorkelling, both free and both outside the park.
Playa Espadilla is the long public beach just outside the national park gate, backed by palms, beach bars and surf schools, with the park's forested headland at its southern end.
It's the place for a surf lesson, a lounger and a cold coconut, and for sunset, when the whole beach turns gold and the rocks offshore go black.
But the surf here creates strong rip currents. Swim only near lifeguards or in calm conditions, and if a current pulls you out, swim parallel to the shore until you're free.
Up the hill, Playa Biesanz is a small, sheltered cove reached by a short trail through the trees. The water is calmer, good for snorkelling, with shade under the trees, and raccoons that unzip bags.
A day on the sand.
Walk down the trail to Biesanz while the water is calm and snorkel along the rocks.
Retreat to the shade, then head down to a soda near Espadilla for lunch.
Take a lesson with a surf school on Espadilla, where instructors know the safe spots.
Walk south along the sand towards the park headland.
Find a spot on the sand or at a beach bar for sunset over the islands.
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Buses run along the road from Quepos to the beach every half hour or so; Biesanz's trail starts from a side road near the hotels.
Espadilla has bars, rentals and surf schools; Biesanz has nothing, so bring what you need.
Don't feed the monkeys or raccoons, and keep food sealed away.
Manuel Antonio practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
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