The long sand spit that closes Luanda's bay: fishing boats on one side, Atlantic beaches and beach bars on the other.
The Ilha is a seven-kilometre spit of sand joined to the city by a causeway. It has long been home to the Axiluanda fishing people.
Their sea spirit, Kianda, is still honoured with offerings at the water's edge.
On the bay side are fishing boats and yards where fish is grilled over charcoal. On the ocean side are beach restaurants, loungers and clubs.
Luanda eats here on Saturday, dances on Sunday afternoon and goes out at night. Swim on the ocean side, not in the bay, and not after heavy rain.
Lunch to late, the local way.
Taxi over from the Marginal.
See the boats come in and choose fish for the grill.
Fish, funge and a cold beer at a long table.
A lounger, a swim and the Atlantic surf.
Beach clubs fill late; go by taxi and come back by taxi.
Taxi or ride-hailing car across the causeway; traffic is heavy on weekend afternoons.
Agree prices for fish by weight before it goes on the grill.
