A wide river mouth fringed with mangroves, then a horseshoe surf bay under cliffs: the best overnight escape from the capital.
The Kwanza, Angola's great river, reaches the sea 70 km south of the city in a wide brown mouth lined with mangrove.
A lodge at the Barra do Kwanza runs boat trips upriver past birds and fishing villages. It also offers some of the world's best fishing for giant tarpon.
About 50 km further, past the Sangano turtle beach, lies Cabo Ledo. It is a horseshoe bay under cliffs, with a long left-hand wave, a simple lodge and a beach bar.
Together they make the best overnight trip from Luanda: the river one day, the surf the next.
River, beach, surf and back.
Cross the river and turn down to the lodge at its mouth.
Mangroves, herons and fishing camps; or a line for tarpon.
Stop at the turtle beach on the way south.
Lunch at the beach bar and watch the long left wave.
Leave in time to reach Luanda in daylight.
By car or with a driver on the coast road south; allow two hours to the Kwanza at weekends.
Book the lodges ahead, especially for holiday weekends.
