A lake in the crater of an ancient super-eruption, an island the size of a small country in the middle, and Batak villages whose roofs sweep up like the prows of boats.
Lake Toba fills the caldera of a super-volcano that erupted about 74,000 years ago. It is the largest volcanic lake in the world, roughly 100 km long, and sits at around 900 metres, so the air is fresh after the jungle.
In the middle rises Samosir, an island of rice paddies, pine hills and villages. Most travellers stay on the little Tuktuk peninsula, in guesthouses with their own jetties for swimming.
This is the homeland of the Toba Batak. Their traditional houses stand on stilts under huge saddle-shaped roofs, with carved and painted gables; carved stone tombs of old kings stand in the villages.
The lake makes a perfect rest after Bukit Lawang. On the way, the highland town of Berastagi sits between two volcanoes: Sibayak, which you can climb, and the active Sinabung.
A slow few days after the trek.
Travel up into the cool Karo highlands. Climb Sibayak at dawn for its steaming crater, then soak in the hot springs at its foot.
Drive on to Parapat on the lakeshore and take the ferry across to Tuktuk on Samosir.
Visit the carved stone sarcophagi and Batak houses at Tomok, a short ride south of Tuktuk.
See the ancient stone seats of the village council at Ambarita, and the Batak houses and tor-tor dancing at Simanindo.
Rent a scooter and loop the island, or simply swim off the jetty and watch the light on the caldera walls.
Guesthouses in Bukit Lawang arrange shared minibuses to Berastagi or straight to Parapat. Ferries run from Parapat to Tuktuk and Tomok through the day.
Rent a scooter or bicycle on Samosir; local minibuses run the main road round the island.
The Toba Batak are mostly Christian; churches and graves are sacred. Ask before entering a family house or photographing a ceremony.
Bukit Lawang practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
