Cross the river at eight, climb into the rainforest on steep, rooty trails, and spend the day looking up: Sumatran orangutans in the canopy, leaf monkeys with punk hairdos, hornbills overhead, and lunch wrapped in a leaf beside a stream.
Bukit Lawang grew up around an orangutan rehabilitation centre founded in the 1970s on the Bohorok river. Many of the semi-wild orangutans near the village are its former residents and their offspring, which is why sightings here are so likely.
Treks cross the river at around 8am and climb the ridge behind the old feeding platform onto steep, rooty trails through the forest of the Gunung Leuser National Park. Orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys and macaques are likely; gibbons are heard more often than seen; hornbills pass overhead with a whoosh of wings. Lunch is nasi goreng wrapped in a banana leaf, eaten beside a stream.
You return on foot or, on request, by tube down the river through the gorge. Three- and four-hour half-day versions exist for families and tight schedules. Guides must be licensed, groups should stay at six or fewer, and the park permit is arranged by the guide. Wear trainers or light boots you can get wet, and long trousers for the leeches.
No two days follow the same path: guides adjust the route to where the orangutans are.
Meet your guide, cross the river by canoe or bridge, and register at the park post.
Climb behind the old feeding platform on muddy, root-laced paths, stopping often to look and listen.
Guides track mothers with young and the occasional big male. Keep at least ten metres away and never offer food.
Nasi goreng in a leaf, fruit and sweet tea, with a dip in the stream if you're hot.
Tubes lashed together carry you down the river back to the village, a cool and very wet finish.
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Book through your guesthouse or the guides' association office. Ask to see the guide's licence, and agree route, group size and price in advance.
The national park permit is included in most trek prices; your guide buys it at the park office.
No feeding, no touching, no flash, and no sick trekkers: orangutans catch human illnesses.
Bukit Lawang practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
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