The leafy square at the heart of a colonial capital, and the yellow arch that frames the volcano on every postcard.
Antigua was laid out in 1543 as the capital of Spain's Central American kingdom, and its main square, Parque Central, is still the centre of everything.
Shady trees and benches surround the 18th-century fountain of the sirens. On one side stands the long arcaded Palace of the Captains General; opposite, the town hall; to the east, the white façade of the Cathedral of San José, with the roofless ruins of the older cathedral behind it.
After earthquakes in 1773 the capital moved away, and Antigua was left as a time capsule of colonial streets, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Three blocks north, the yellow Arco de Santa Catalina once let cloistered nuns cross the street unseen. With Volcán de Agua rising behind it, it's the town's best-known view. Go at seven, before the tuk-tuks and crowds.
An early-morning loop.
Start at the Santa Catalina arch on 5a Avenida Norte while the street is empty and Agua is clear.
Walk three blocks south along the cobbles, past colonial houses with heavy wooden doors.
Sit by the fountain as the square wakes up, with the palaces and cathedral around you.
Look into the cathedral, then visit the ruins of the older nave behind it.
End with coffee in a café on the square's arcades, or a rooftop terrace with a volcano view.
The centre is a compact grid; everything here is a short walk. Avenidas run north–south, calles east–west.
The square and arch are free; the cathedral ruins and museums have small fees.
The tourist police (Asistur) are based near the centre and helpful with directions.
Antigua practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
