The village that faces west, strung along the road with a majolica dome in the middle, a fishing cove in a cleft below, and the only sunsets on the coast that drop straight into the sea. The best-value base on the coast.
Most of the Amalfi Coast faces south, and the sun sets behind a headland. Praiano turns west, so the evening light goes on until it reaches the water, with Positano glowing pink across the bay.
The village has no real centre. It is a string of houses and hotels along the coast road, with the green and yellow majolica dome of San Gennaro on a terrace in the middle. From there, steps lead down to Gavitella, a small west-facing beach that keeps the sun until evening.
On the Amalfi side, Marina di Praia is a fishing cove in a narrow cleft below the road: a few boats, a beach the size of a tennis court, the restaurant Il Pirata on the rocks and a path round the cliff to the old watchtower and the Africana club in its sea cave.
Praiano is also the start of the steep steps up from the San Domenico convent to the Path of the Gods. With prices lower than Positano and buses in both directions, it is the sensible base for a week on the coast.
Swim in the morning, explore the cove at lunchtime and finish facing west.
Start at the majolica-paved piazza in front of San Gennaro, with the view to Positano.
Take the long stairway down to Gavitella for a swim off the rocks.
Walk or bus along the road to the cleft and go down to the cove for fish on the rocks.
Follow the path round the cliff past the tower towards the Africana cave.
Back up to a terrace for the sun dropping into the sea beyond Positano.
SITA buses between Positano and Amalfi stop along the village. For the main ferry routes, take the bus to Positano or Amalfi.
Hotels and guesthouses along the road are cheaper than in Positano, many with sea-view terraces.
The cave club opens in summer only, and nothing starts before midnight.
Amalfi Coast practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences; some are our own.
