Skyscrapers and free views on one side of the world's busiest station, neon, smoke and tiny bars on the other.
Shinjuku station is the busiest in the world, and it splits the district in two.
The west side is skyscrapers, including the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building with its free observation decks.
The east side is Kabukicho: the giant movie-monster head on a hotel roof, the neon food hall of the new Kabukicho Tower and the clatter of pachinko parlours.
Squeezed against the tracks, Omoide Yokocho has about sixty smoke-filled yakitori stalls, open since 1946. Golden Gai packs 280 bars into six alleys, each seating about six people. Shinjuku Gyoen, the imperial garden, is for the morning after.
West to east, view to bar.
The free view over the city as the lights come on.
Squeeze into a stall for skewers and a beer.
Cross to Kabukicho and its neon.
A loud, bright hall of stalls and music.
Choose a bar that welcomes visitors and take one of six seats.
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JR or subway to Shinjuku; follow signs to the west or east exits.
Many Golden Gai bars charge a cover; some are for regulars only. Look for signs welcoming visitors.
Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
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