A walk along the island's wild windward side: a fishing village in the dunes, a two-kilometre beach the Atlantic hammers all year, a black lava headland, and a sheltered lagoon pool at the end for the swim you have been waiting for.
Mindelo faces the calm bay; the north-east coast faces the trade winds. Out here the sand blows into dunes, the surf is relentless and the light is enormous.
Start in Salamansa, a fishing village on a crescent of sand where boats are pulled up among the dunes. Walk east over the sand to Praia Grande, a long, empty beach with Monte Verde rising behind it, then pick your way across a lava headland of black rock and tide pools. The walk ends at Baía das Gatas, where a reef closes off a natural lagoon that is safe for swimming, and where the island's big music festival is held each August.
None of the beaches before Baía das Gatas are safe to swim: the currents at Salamansa and Praia Grande are strong. Strong walkers can carry on south for another three to four hours to Calhau on the east coast. Either way, set it up with a taxi pickup and a fish lunch at the end.
Loggerhead turtles nest on the north-coast beaches from June to October. Stay off marked nests, keep to the wet sand in season, and never use lights on the beach at night.
Keep the sea on your left and walk east: there is no path to lose.
Taxi from Mindelo (about 15 minutes). Wander down to the boats and the beach before heading east.
Cross the dunes behind the shore; the wind shapes them freshly every week.
Two kilometres of sand and heavy surf, with Monte Verde behind. Walk on the firm wet sand; do not swim.
Scramble carefully over the lava headland and its tide pools; the rock is sharp and can be slippery.
Swim in the sheltered lagoon, eat grilled fish, and meet your taxi.
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Taxi from Mindelo to Salamansa; arrange the same driver to collect you at Baía das Gatas, or at Calhau if you continue.
Only in the lagoon at Baía das Gatas. Salamansa and Praia Grande have dangerous currents.
In August–October, avoid ribeiras when rain is forecast: dry valleys can flood suddenly.
São Vicente practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photos under the Pexels licence.
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