Grey ash craters above the clouds on Costa Rica's highest volcano, and below it the old capital's great basilica and roofless ruined church.
Irazú, at 3,432 metres, is the highest volcano in Costa Rica. A road climbs almost to the summit, past dairy farms and potato fields, to a lunar landscape of grey ash and sand.
From the viewpoints you look into the main crater, sometimes holding a lake, and the wide, flat Diego de la Haya crater. On rare clear mornings both the Pacific and the Caribbean are said to be visible.
Down in the valley, Cartago was Costa Rica's first capital. Its huge Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles shelters a small dark stone figure of the Virgin, the country's patron, and each August pilgrims walk here from all over the country.
On the main square, the roofless ruins of the church of Santiago Apóstol, wrecked by earthquakes and never finished, now enclose a quiet garden.
A morning loop from San José.
Drive up through Cartago and the farmland to the park gate as it opens.
Walk the short paths to the main crater and the Diego de la Haya crater.
If the weather's clear, look out over the sea of clouds and the Central Valley.
Drive down to Cartago and visit the basilica and its spring.
Finish in the garden of the Santiago Apóstol ruins on the main square.
By car or tour; a bus runs from San José to the volcano on some days. Cartago is also reached by train and bus.
Irazú is open 8 to 4; pay the entry by card. The basilica and ruins are free.
The Orosi valley and Lankester Gardens are close to Cartago if you want to make a longer day.
San José practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
