The old working quarter across the Tiber, all ivy and cobbles, and the hill behind it with the finest view of Rome's domes. Climb up in the afternoon and come down for dinner.
Trastevere was the quarter of sailors, tanners and immigrants, and its people long thought of themselves as the truest Romans. Today it has the city's densest run of trattorias and bars.
At its centre, Santa Maria in Trastevere glows with gold: 12th-century mosaics in the apse and Pietro Cavallini's scenes of the Virgin below. Entry is free.
By the river, Villa Farnesina holds Raphael's frescoes of Galatea and Cupid and Psyche, for a small fee.
Behind the quarter rises the Janiculum. At noon a cannon fires from below the terrace; along the way are Bramante's Tempietto, the great Fontanone and the best terrace view of the domes in Rome.
About three hours, from late morning to the aperitivo.
The Triumph of Galatea and the painted garden pergola of Cupid and Psyche.
Climb the steps to the terrace for the noon gun and the view across the domes.
The Acqua Paola fountain, then Bramante's tiny round temple in San Pietro in Montorio's courtyard.
Step in from the fountain-square to the gold mosaics of the apse.
Cacio e pepe at Da Enzo, then a Campari on Piazza San Calisto.
Tram 8 from Largo Argentina, or walk over Ponte Sisto from Campo de' Fiori.
Steps lead up from Via Garibaldi; bus 115 runs along the Janiculum if you would rather ride.
Trastevere is loud late on weekends; sleep on the east side or across the river.
Rome practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
