The arena, the old civic heart of the empire and the hill where the emperors lived, all on one ticket. Do them in reverse and finish in the arena as the light turns gold.
The Colosseum opened in AD 80 and held around 50,000 spectators. Beside it, the Forum was the city's market, law court and parliament for a thousand years, and above it the Palatine held the palaces of the emperors.
One archaeological park ticket (€18) covers a timed Colosseum entry plus the Forum and Palatine over 24 hours. The Full Experience (€24, two days) adds the arena floor and the Palatine's painted houses.
The underground tour of the hypogeum, where animals and gladiators waited, is released 30 days ahead and sells out within minutes from March to October. Tickets carry your name and are checked against ID.
The best order is the reverse of the crowd's: Forum at opening, the Palatine for the view, and the Colosseum in the last two hours of light.
A full day, with a long lunch break in the middle.
Walk down the Via Sacra past the Curia, the Temple of Vesta and the Arch of Septimius Severus.
Titus's arch shows the spoils of Jerusalem carried in procession.
Climb to the Farnese Gardens for the view down over the Forum.
The Domus Augustana terraces look down on the old chariot track.
Enter for your timed slot in the last two hours of light, when the travertine glows.


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Buy only on the official Colosseum site. Set an alarm for the release of underground slots 30 days ahead.
Metro lines B and C both stop at Colosseo, opposite the arena.
Opening and the last two hours are calmest; midday in July and August is punishing.
Rome practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.