One man's obsession: a public staircase covered in thousands of tiles from around the world. At its foot, the old aqueduct arches and Rio's liveliest samba streets.
The Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón lived beside a shabby staircase linking Lapa to Santa Teresa. He began decorating it with broken tiles, mostly green, yellow and blue, and never stopped.
Over the years travellers sent him tiles from home, and the 215 steps now carry pieces from around sixty countries, alongside Selarón's own hand-painted tiles. He worked on them until his death in 2013, and called the work his tribute to the Brazilian people.
At the bottom, the white double arches of the Arcos da Lapa, an 18th-century aqueduct, carry the Santa Teresa tram across the square.
By night Lapa changes completely: bars spill onto the street, samba spills out of old townhouses, and on Friday and Saturday the area under the arches turns into one big party.
Two visits, twelve hours apart.
Arrive early for photos before the tour groups, and look for tiles from your own country.
Walk to the top for the best details and painted panels, then continue up into Santa Teresa.
Back down, stand under the white arches and wait for the yellow tram to rattle across.
Return after dark to the music bars on Rua do Lavradio and Rua Mem de Sá.
On Friday and Saturday nights, join the street crowd beneath the arches, then take a taxi home.
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Cinelândia and Carioca metro stations are a 10-minute walk. The steps start on Rua Joaquim Silva.
Lapa is busy and fun at night but has pickpockets. Carry little, stay in lively streets and use taxis or ride apps to get home.
People live on the steps; don't block doorways, and keep the noise down in the morning.
Rio practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
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