A green hill of crumbling mansions, cobbled lanes and artists' studios above the city centre, reached by Rio's last surviving tram.
Santa Teresa was where Rio's wealthy built hilltop mansions in the 19th century, cool and above the city's fevers. When they moved to the beaches, artists and musicians moved in.
Today it's a village within the city: steep streets of faded villas and little shops, studios, guesthouses and bars, with glimpses of the bay and Sugarloaf between the trees.
The yellow bonde, the Santa Teresa tram, has climbed here since the 1870s, crossing the old aqueduct at Lapa and rattling up through the narrow streets.
At the top, the Chácara do Céu museum holds a private art collection in a modernist house and garden, and the neighbouring Parque das Ruínas, the shell of a mansion, has one of the best free views over the centre.
An easy afternoon plan.
Board the bonde at its station near Carioca and cross the Lapa arches high above the square.
Get off in the little square at the heart of the hill and eat at a neighbourhood bar.
Wander the streets around the square, ducking into craft shops and open studios.
Visit the art museum and its gardens, then the free terraces of Parque das Ruínas next door.
Walk down to Lapa by the tiled steps as the light goes, and stay for the evening.
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The tram leaves from near Carioca metro station; check the timetable, as service can be limited. Taxis and ride apps go up too.
Chácara do Céu is closed some weekdays; check opening days before planning around it.
Stick to the busier streets around the tram line and the main squares, especially later in the day.
Rio practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
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