An avenue of royal palms planted two centuries ago, toucans in the canopy, and a mansion courtyard café where the trail to Christ the Redeemer begins.
The Jardim Botânico was founded in 1808 by the Portuguese prince regent, newly arrived in Rio, to grow spices and exotic plants. It has grown into one of the great botanical gardens of the tropics.
Its signature is the avenue of imperial palms, a long, straight double row of towering smooth trunks. Elsewhere there are orchid and bromeliad houses, lily ponds with giant Amazon water lilies, a Japanese garden and quiet paths into the forest.
Wildlife comes in from the Tijuca forest behind: toucans calling in the canopy, marmosets scampering along the railings and, sometimes, a family of capuchin monkeys.
Next door, Parque Lage is a 1920s mansion with a courtyard pool, now an art school and café, set in wild gardens under the cliffs of Corcovado. The trail to Christ the Redeemer starts behind it.
A slow morning before the heat.
Enter as the gates open and walk the avenue of imperial palms while it's empty and cool.
See the orchid house, the bromeliads and the giant water lilies on the ponds.
Walk to the quieter upper paths and listen for toucans; look for marmosets on the railings.
Walk next door to Parque Lage for coffee by the mansion pool, with Christ the Redeemer above.
Start the forest trail to the statue, or stroll down to the Lagoa for lunch by the water.
Buses along Rua Jardim Botânico from Ipanema, Leblon and Botafogo, or a short taxi ride. Parque Lage is a few minutes' walk from the garden gate.
The garden opens early; mornings are coolest and best for birds. Allow two to three hours.
If you plan to hike Corcovado, start from Parque Lage in the morning and check current trail advice first.
Rio practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
