Two Tijuca summits for different moods: a half-hour stroll to a granite platform beside the hang-glider ramp, staring straight at Pedra da Gávea, and a longer forest climb to the park's highest point up iron-railed steps cut into the rock.
Tijuca National Park is one of the largest urban forests in the world, replanted in the 19th century after coffee plantations stripped the slopes. Its peaks give Rio's best views without the crowds of the postcard spots.
Pedra Bonita is a 30-minute stroll from the road above São Conrado through forest to a broad granite platform next to the hang-glider ramp, with Pedra da Gávea filling the view, São Conrado's beach below and Dois Irmãos beyond. Most people are gliding off it by about ten, and watching them launch is half the fun.
Pico da Tijuca, at 1,021 metres the highest point in the park, is a longer forest climb from the Bom Retiro car park, finishing on iron-railed steps cut into the final rock, with views over the north zone, Guanabara Bay and the Serra dos Órgãos. Both need a car or ride-hail to the trailhead. Pedra Bonita is the one to do with children.
Do Pedra Bonita early for the gliders, or Pico da Tijuca for a proper forest day.
Get dropped near the hang-glider ramp road above São Conrado, and take the signed path into the forest.
Climb gently to the open rock beside the ramp; watch the gliders launch and the coast unfold.
From the car park deep in the Floresta da Tijuca, follow the signs for the Pico through tall forest.
The trail climbs steadily past the smaller Tijuca Mirim peak to the base of the summit rock.
Climb the iron-railed steps cut into the rock to the 1,021-metre top, then return the same way.
Take a ride-hail to either trailhead and arrange your return; mobile signal can be weak in the forest.
Trails open from 8am to 5pm; be off them before closing.
Pair Pico da Tijuca with the Cascatinha waterfall and the Mayrink chapel in the Floresta da Tijuca.
Rio practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
