.jpg?width=1920)
A car-free island of sand streets at the top of the Yucatán, and at its western tip, on dark summer nights, a sea that glows: every step in the shallows sends sparks of blue light swirling around your legs.
Holbox is a long, thin island inside the Yum Balam reserve, with sand streets, golf carts instead of cars, flamingos in the lagoon and, in summer, whale sharks offshore.
The glow comes from microscopic plankton that flash blue when the water is disturbed. It is strongest on warm, still, moonless nights from May to September. Walk or cycle west along the beach from the village to Punta Cocos, switch off your torch, let your eyes adjust, and wade into the shallows at Punta Cocos, where the water lights up blue around your legs.
Holbox is about three hours north of Playa by road and ferry, too far for a day trip, so stay at least two nights. Days can go to flamingo and bird trips on the lagoon, whale-shark tours in season, or simply the long white beach.
An evening walk along the island's western beach.
Leave the village on foot or by bike and follow the beach west as the sun sets over the Gulf.
Watch the sunset over the shallows from the beach at Punta Cocos.
Switch off torches and phones and give your eyes ten minutes to adjust to the dark.
Walk slowly into the knee-deep water and watch the blue sparks swirl around every step.
Return along the beach under a sky full of stars to the village's sand streets.
.jpg?width=1280)
.jpg?width=960)
.jpg?width=1920)
Drive or take a bus to Chiquilá, leave the car in a guarded lot, and take the passenger ferry, about 25 minutes, to Holbox.
There are no private cars; walk, rent a bike or take a golf-cart taxi.
Do not use sunscreen or repellent in the water at night, and avoid splashing crowds that disturb the plankton.
Playa del Carmen practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
.jpg?width=960)
.jpg){kind=link}
