Aristocratic mansions, the oldest planned square in Paris, the Jewish quarter and a run of free museums. Shops open on Sundays here, which makes it the city's best Sunday walk.
In the 17th century the nobility built their hôtels particuliers here, round courtyards behind carriage gates. Haussmann's boulevards passed it by, so the medieval street plan survives.
The heart is the Place des Vosges, laid out under Henri IV: red-brick pavilions over arcades round a square garden. In one corner, Victor Hugo's house keeps his apartment as he lived in it.
The Picasso museum fills the grand Hôtel Salé, and the Carnavalet, the museum of the history of Paris, is free. Rue des Rosiers, the old Jewish quarter, is the place for falafel.
North, the Marché des Enfants Rouges, founded in 1615, is the city's oldest covered market, with lunch counters from Morocco to Japan. The Haut Marais, towards République, has the galleries and cocktail bars.
About three hours with stops, ending near République.
Walk through the courtyard and garden of the Hôtel de Sully into the corner of the Place des Vosges.
Circle the arcades, then climb to Hugo's apartment at number 6.
Queue for a pita on rue des Rosiers and eat it in a nearby garden.
Choose the Hôtel Salé's Picassos, or the free history of Paris at the Carnavalet.
Finish at the covered market, then the galleries and cocktail bars toward République.
Métro Saint-Paul (line 1) for the south end; Filles du Calvaire or République for the north.
The Carnavalet and Victor Hugo's house are free for the permanent collections; book the Picasso museum ahead.
Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
