A dead-straight Greek street that "splits Naples" in two, lined with churches, cloisters, shrines and pizzerias. Two and a half thousand years of the city in a single walk.
Neapolis was laid out by Greek settlers in the 5th century BC on three parallel streets. Spaccanapoli follows the southern one, and the old city still keeps their plan.
From the west, the diamond-studded façade of the Gesù Nuovo faces Santa Chiara, whose cloister is lined with 18th-century majolica tiles of vines and village scenes. Further on is the square of San Domenico Maggiore.
Just off it, the Cappella Sansevero holds the Veiled Christ of 1753, a marble shroud so fine it looks wet. It needs a timed ticket online, about €12, and photography is banned.
Parallel to the north, Via dei Tribunali has the Duomo with San Gennaro's treasure, Caravaggio's Seven Works of Mercy at the Pio Monte, and the great pizzerias. On Via San Gregorio Armeno, workshops sell nativity figures of saints and footballers all year.
A half-day walk of about two kilometres.
The diamond-point façade, then the tiled cloister of the Poor Clares across the street.
Your timed slot at the Cappella Sansevero, a few steps off the square.
Workshops of shepherds, saints, politicians and footballers in terracotta.
San Gennaro's chapel and treasure, then Caravaggio's great altarpiece round the corner.
End at one of the historic pizzerias; queue, take a number and expect it fast.
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Metro line 1 to Dante, then five minutes down to Piazza del Gesù.
Book Sansevero online; Santa Chiara's cloister and the Pio Monte sell tickets at the door.
Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
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