The finest coast walk within reach of London: a roller coaster along the top of England's whitest cliffs, over seven chalk summits and up to Beachy Head, the highest chalk sea cliff in Britain, with the Channel glittering below the whole way.
Where the South Downs meet the sea, the chalk has been sliced clean by the waves into a wall of brilliant white cliffs. Seen from Seaford Head across the mouth of the Cuckmere, it is one of England's defining views.
The walk follows the South Downs Way and the coast path. It begins over Seaford Head, drops to the meanders of the Cuckmere river, then climbs onto the Sisters themselves: seven rounded summits, each about 100 metres high, separated by deep dips. Beyond them lie the hamlet of Birling Gap with its National Trust café, the old Belle Tout lighthouse, which was moved back from the crumbling edge in 1999, and finally the great headland of Beachy Head, with its red-and-white lighthouse far below. The path then drops steeply into Eastbourne.
It is mostly short, repeated climbs and constant wind rather than anything technical, but 22 km of up and down adds up. A half-day version ends at Birling Gap.
The cliffs are undercut and collapse without warning, sometimes in huge falls. There are no fences. Keep well back from the edge, especially for photographs, and keep dogs and children close.
Waymarked as the South Downs Way and the coast path. Navigation is simple: keep the sea on your right.
Approximate profile. Every Sister is a short, steep up and down.
From Seaford station walk to the seafront and climb east over Seaford Head nature reserve. At the far side, above Hope Gap, the coastguard cottages stand on the cliff edge with the Seven Sisters lined up beyond the Cuckmere: the classic view.
The Cuckmere cannot be forded at its mouth. Follow the path inland along the valley, among the river's lazy meanders, to the bridge and visitor centre at Exceat, then walk back down the other bank to the beach.
Climb Haven Brow, the first and highest of the Sisters, and continue over Short Brow, Rough Brow, Brass Point, Flagstaff Point, Baily's Hill and Went Hill Brow. Each dip has its own name; each top has a new view east.
A row of cottages, half of them already lost to the sea, a National Trust café and a staircase to the shingle beach. The half-day walk ends here with a bus to Eastbourne.
Pass the old Belle Tout lighthouse, now a B&B, and climb to Beachy Head. From the top, the striped lighthouse stands on the rocks 160 metres below.
The South Downs Way ends with a steep descent to the edge of Eastbourne. Walk along the seafront to the pier or straight to the station for the train back to Victoria.
Trains from London Victoria reach Seaford in under 90 minutes, changing at Lewes. Eastbourne has direct trains back to Victoria. Buy an open return or two singles.
Buses along the coast road link Seaford, Exceat and Eastbourne, and a seasonal service calls at Birling Gap and Beachy Head. Check current timetables before relying on them.
Keep well back from the cliff edge at all times. Do not walk along the beach below the cliffs on a rising tide: you can be cut off, and rockfalls are common.
London practical notes →
Stepping stones, chalk slopes and a vineyard lunch.
Beechwoods and the Coombe Hill monument.
The Tamsin Trail round London's largest royal park.
Upriver from Richmond to the Tudor palace.
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Parliament Hill's skyline view, Kenwood and the ponds.
London's two circular walks, a section at a time.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their Creative Commons licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
