A day on the emptiest of Lofoten's main islands: a ferry across the Maelstrom, then a climb up the old military road to the summit of Håen, 438 metres above the sea, with Moskenesøya's jagged peaks across the strait and the open Atlantic on every side.
The E10 ends at Å, but Lofoten doesn't. South-west across the Moskenstraumen, the tidal current that inspired Poe's and Verne's tales of the Maelstrom, lies Værøy: a small, steep island of seabird cliffs, white beaches and a few hundred people.
Its classic walk is Håen, the island's high point above the village and airport. An old road, built to serve the radar station on the summit, zigzags up the mountain, so the climb is steep but straightforward. From the top the view is astonishing: Moskenesøya's wall of peaks across the strait, Røst's flat islets to the south-west, and the swirling currents of the Moskenstraumen below.
Add a walk out towards Måstad, an abandoned village on the far side of the island once home to families who lived from fishing and catching seabirds, and you have one of the most memorable days in Lofoten.
An out-and-back on the old access road. Steep in places, but no scrambling.
From Sørland, the island's main village, follow the road towards the mountain until the old military road branches off and starts to climb. The ferry quay at Værøy is a few kilometres away; allow time to walk or arrange a lift.
The road winds up the slope in long switchbacks. Views open quickly over the airport, the beaches and the scattered houses of Værøy.
At the top, by the radar installation, look north-east across the Moskenstraumen to the peaks of Moskenesøya, and south-west to the low islands of Røst. On a clear evening in June the light here is extraordinary. Return the same way.
Car ferries link Værøy with Bodø on the mainland and Moskenes on Lofoten, some continuing to Røst. Timetables change by season and some sailings fill up; check and book ahead with the operator.
A small helicopter service connects Værøy with Bodø. It is quick and spectacular, but weather-dependent with limited seats.
A day trip is possible with the right ferries, but a night on Værøy gives you the evening light on Håen and the island to yourself. Accommodation is limited; book early.
Lofoten practical notes →
Nearly 2,000 Sherpa-built steps to the view over Reine.
To a hut among lakes, then the highest peak on Moskenesøya.
A cliff ledge above the wildest beach in Lofoten.
Straight up from Henningsvær to the view over the island village.
Two short summits above Lofoten's white-sand beaches.
The old coastal path between two white beaches.
Photographs from Wikimedia Commons, used under their Creative Commons licences.
