Three old mountain temples in a steep valley north-west of the city, the clear Kiyotaki river below them, and a riverside trail that winds down through the forest, famous for maples that turn earlier than anywhere in town.
Takao, Makino-o and Toga-no-o are three hamlets strung along the Kiyotaki valley, each with its temple. Together they make one of the loveliest days out of Kyoto, especially in autumn.
Jingo-ji is the grandest: a long flight of stone steps through the forest to a temple where Kūkai, founder of Shingon Buddhism, lived before Mount Kōya. From its terrace above the gorge, visitors throw small clay discs, kawarake, into the valley for luck. Saimyō-ji, across a red bridge, is small and quiet. Kōzan-ji, a World Heritage site, holds the famous Chōjū-giga scrolls of frolicking animals, sometimes called Japan's first manga, shown in replica.
From Takao, a riverside trail follows the Kiyotaki downstream through the forest to the hamlet of Kiyotaki and on towards Arashiyama. The best maples in the city, two weeks earlier than town.
Start at the top of the valley and walk downstream all day.
Get off the bus at Toganoo and climb through cedars to Kōzan-ji's quiet halls and Japan's oldest tea garden.
Walk down the valley road and cross the red Shigetsu bridge to Saimyō-ji, tucked against the hillside.
Cross the Takao bridge and climb the long stone stairway to Jingo-ji. Throw your kawarake from the terrace at the far end.
From below Takao bridge, a path follows the Kiyotaki downstream through the forest, crossing the water on small bridges.
At Kiyotaki hamlet, follow the trail on towards the Hozu river and Arashiyama, or take a bus back from Kiyotaki if you are tired.
.jpg?width=1280)
.jpg?width=960)
.jpg?width=1280)
JR buses from Kyoto station run to Yamashiro-Takao and Toganoo in about 50 minutes; city bus 8 runs from Shijō-Karasuma.
Each of the three temples charges entry; Kōzan-ji has separate tickets for the Sekisui-in hall.
Buses fill fast in November weekends: go on a weekday and catch an early bus.
Kyoto practical notes →.jpg?width=960)
Macaques, a view and the river trail.
.jpg?width=960)
Through the gates to the top.
Cedar roots and a river hamlet.
The fire hill and the canal walk.
The monks' mountain.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
.jpg){kind=link}
