Leave the bamboo-grove crowds behind: up Iwatayama to sit among wild macaques with the city at your feet, then upstream along the Hozu river where it squeezes into a wooded gorge, and back on the slow scenic train.
Arashiyama is Kyoto's busiest corner on a weekend, but the crowds stay down by the Togetsu-kyō bridge and the bamboo. Cross the river and climb, and you are on your own.
Iwatayama Monkey Park sits on the hill on the south bank, a steep 20-minute climb from the river. At the top, about 120 Japanese macaques roam freely around a clearing with one of the best views over the city. Visitors can feed them, but only from inside a caged hut, which neatly reverses the usual zoo arrangement.
Back by the river, the Hozu gorge begins just upstream: the river narrows between steep forested slopes, the route of the Hozu-gawa boat ride down from Kameoka. A path follows the water towards Hozukyō, where the Sagano scenic railway, the torokko, rattles back to Arashiyama in open carriages. Up Iwatayama for the macaques and the view, then along the Hozu gorge trail by the river toward the Hozukyo station and the torokko railway back.
A half day that mixes a short climb, a riverside walk and a train ride.
Cross the Moon Crossing bridge to the south bank and follow the riverside to the entrance of the monkey park beside Ichitani shrine.
A steep path with benches climbs to the clearing at the top. Do not stare the monkeys in the eye, feed them outside, or carry food openly.
Back down, walk upstream along the south bank past the boat landings, where the valley closes in and the crowds fall away.
Paths and lanes follow the river through the woods, with views of the long flat-bottomed boats coming down the rapids.
Climb to the station and ride the open-sided scenic train along the gorge to Torokko Arashiyama, next to the bamboo grove.
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JR Sagano line to Saga-Arashiyama, the Hankyū line to Arashiyama, or the Randen tram. Each is a few minutes' walk from the bridge.
The Sagano scenic railway runs from March to December, closed on some weekdays. Seats sell out in season: book online or at the station early.
Be at the monkey park when it opens, then walk the gorge while the bamboo grove fills with day-trippers.
Kyoto practical notes →
Mountain temples, ending in Arashiyama.
Thousands of gates and a quiet summit.
The tengu's mountain and a river hamlet.
A city view and a canal walk.
The monks' mountain.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
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