A resort town on a terrace high above the Ionian Sea, with a Greek theatre whose stage looks straight out at Etna. Beautiful and very busy, so beat the cruise crowds.
Taormina has drawn travellers since the Grand Tour: Goethe came, then painters, writers and film stars. Its setting has not changed.
The Greek theatre, from the 3rd century BC and rebuilt by the Romans, sits on the edge of the cliff. Its broken stage wall frames Etna and the coast. Entry is €14 to €16, and summer concerts are held inside.
Corso Umberto runs the length of town between medieval gates, lined with boutiques, palazzi and granita bars, with a belvedere on Piazza IX Aprile.
A cable car (€6) drops to the coast for Isola Bella, a pebble beach and a tiny nature-reserve islet. From May to October the town is packed and cruise passengers arrive by 11, so take the first bus.
A full day from Catania, ahead of the crowds.
The first bus arrives before the cruise coaches; the train stops at the coast below.
Sit high in the cavea for the view of the volcano and the sea.
Palazzo Corvaja, the belvedere on Piazza IX Aprile and a granita.
Climb or take the bus to the village above for lunch and almond wine.
Ride down for a swim from the pebbles by the island.
Buses from Catania's bus station and airport take about an hour to the town terminal; trains stop at Taormina-Giardini below, with a bus up.
Buy theatre tickets online in summer; the cable car takes cards.
Stay for sunset if you can: the day-trippers leave and the town calms.
Catania practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
