Two of eastern Sicily's best summer escapes. North of Etna, wade up a river between walls of basalt columns in water cold enough to take your breath away. South, near Syracuse, descend into a deep limestone canyon to swim in a chain of emerald pools.
When the Sicilian summer gets too hot for the volcano, head for water. These two gorges could hardly be more different, and both are unforgettable.
The Alcantara gorge was carved by the river through an ancient lava flow from the Etna area. As the lava cooled it cracked into hexagonal columns, and the river has exposed them in walls like organ pipes. At Motta Camastra, a public stairway and a private park lead down to the riverbed. From June to September you can hire waders and walk upstream into the gorge, in water around 12°C.
Cava Grande del Cassibile, near Avola south of Syracuse, is a limestone canyon several hundred metres deep. A steep path drops about 300 metres to a string of clear green pools linked by small waterfalls. It is often closed in summer for fire risk, and at other times uses numbered daily entry.
Short distances, but uneven, wet and slippery ground. Good footwear matters more than fitness.
From the road at Motta Camastra, take the free public stairs or the lift in the private park down to the pebble beach at the mouth of the gorge.
In waders, walk and scramble up the river between basalt walls 20–25 metres high. Turn back where the water gets too deep or fast.
From the belvedere above Avola, look down into the canyon, then take the steep, stepped path to the bottom.
Swim in the clear pools and sunbathe on the rocks, then climb back up in the cooler late afternoon. The climb out is the hard part.
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About an hour's drive north-west from Catania, or an Interbus service from Catania or Taormina. Waders are hired at the entrance in season; wading is only allowed when the river is calm.
About 1.5 hours south of Catania by car. Access to the bottom is regulated by the reserve: often closed in summer for fire risk, with numbered entry at other times.
Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia, near Alcantara, lead into the Etna DOC vineyards for a tasting on the way back.
Etna wine in the guide →
The 2002 eruption cones and a birch-wood loop.
An old stone path down the cliff to fried fish.
Lifts, a 4x4 and a guided walk to the top.
The best free viewpoint over the Valle del Bove.
Pine woods round the cones of 1669.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
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