A free, unguided walk up a narrow ridge on the rim of the Valle del Bove, the enormous collapsed basin on Etna's eastern flank. From the top you look across a desert of black lava flows to the summit craters on one side and the sea on the other.
The Valle del Bove is a horseshoe-shaped depression several kilometres across, its cliffs over a thousand metres high in places, formed when part of the old volcano collapsed. Lava from the summit now pours into it regularly.
The Schiena dell'Asino, the "donkey's back", is a ridge on its southern rim. A path climbs from the road just below Rifugio Sapienza through sparse pines and over old lava to the crest, about 250 metres above the start. From there the whole valley opens up: walls streaked with dykes, black flows of different ages, the steaming summit beyond and the coast at Giarre and Riposto far below.
It is the best free viewpoint on the south side, and needs no guide or ticket. The hard version continues over the Montagnola in a 13-kilometre loop with 800 metres of climbing.
A clear path for the short version; the long loop needs navigation skills and good weather.
Start from the signed trailhead on the road a little below the refuge, heading east through scattered pines and old flows.
Climb the sandy path onto the narrow ridge and follow it to the viewpoint over the Valle del Bove. Keep back from the crumbling edge.
Strong walkers continue up the rim to the Montagnola, an old cone at about 2,500 metres, and loop back down across the ash slopes to Rifugio Sapienza.
The daily AST bus from Catania to Rifugio Sapienza drops you close to the start; check the return time. By car, park in the lay-bys near the trailhead.
Clouds often fill the Valle del Bove by late morning. Start early for the clearest view, and turn back in fog: the ridge has steep drops.
Walk the Crateri Silvestri by the car park before or after, then head down to Nicolosi for the Monti Rossi.
Catania practical notes →
Lifts, a 4x4 and a guided walk to the top.
The 2002 eruption cones and a birch-wood loop.
Pine woods round the cones of 1669.
An old stone path down the cliff to fried fish.
Wading a basalt gorge, and pools in a canyon.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
