Two islands, two very different walks. On Ischia, climb through vineyards and chestnut woods to the green-tuff summit of Monte Epomeo, with a hermitage carved into the rock. On Procida, the smallest island in the bay, wander a flat loop of pastel harbours and fortified heights.
Ischia and Procida are the Phlegraean islands, part of the same volcanic system as the Campi Flegrei on the mainland. Ischia is big, green and famous for its hot springs; Procida is tiny, quiet and painted in every colour.
Monte Epomeo, 789 metres, is Ischia's highest point: an uplifted block of green volcanic tuff in the middle of the island. From the village of Fontana, a path climbs about an hour and a half through vineyards and woods to the summit, where the small hermitage of San Nicola is cut into the soft rock. The view takes in the whole island, the Campi Flegrei, Procida, Capri and, on clear days, the Pontine islands far to the west.
Procida is best on foot. A flat loop from the ferry at Marina Grande climbs to Terra Murata, the old fortified town with its abbey and the long-closed prison in a former palace, looks down on the pastel houses of the Corricella fishing harbour, and continues to the beaches of Chiaiolella in the south-west.
Do them on separate days, or Epomeo in the morning and Procida in the late afternoon if the ferries line up.
Take the island bus to Fontana. Signed paths and a stony track lead up out of the village through vineyards and chestnut woods.
The final section climbs over eroded green tuff to the chapel and hermitage of San Nicola and the rocky summit. A café near the top serves simple food in season. Descend the same way.
From the ferry, climb the lanes to Terra Murata, the island's highest point, with its abbey of San Michele and views over the whole bay.
Drop to the Corricella harbour, all pastel houses and fishing boats, then continue across the island to the beaches and the footbridge to the islet of Vivara at Chiaiolella. Buses run back to Marina Grande.
Ferries and hydrofoils run from Naples (Molo Beverello and Calata Porta di Massa) and from Pozzuoli to both islands, and between Ischia and Procida. Pozzuoli is often the quickest crossing.
Ischia has a good bus network round the island; Procida has small buses and micro-taxis. Both are easier without a car.
Ischia is famous for its thermal gardens and hot springs: the perfect end to the summit climb.
Naples practical notes →
The rim of the volcano that buried Pompeii.
Capri's wild west coast past three forts.
A forest in a crater, and Europe's youngest mountain.
Bomerano to Nocelle, high above Positano.
Beech woods and the highest peak of the Lattari.
Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
