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From the walls of a 16th-century Portuguese fort into the lanes of the Swahili town: carved doors, fretwork balconies, the scent of cardamom and halwa, and the old harbour where dhows still tie up.
Mombasa's Old Town is a Swahili port town layered with Portuguese, Omani and British history, and it is still lived in: children on the way to madrasa, coffee sellers with brass kettles, cats on every doorstep.
Start at Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese from 1593 and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and museum. From the fort, follow Ndia Kuu, the old main street, north into the lanes. Look up for fretwork balconies and look closely at the carved doors, some Indian, some Swahili, studded and decorated with chains and lotus patterns.
Pass the white Mandhry Mosque, dating from 1570, with its distinctive minaret, and the spice and halwa shops along the way. Continue to the old port and its dhow jetty, then return along the waterfront to the fort.
A guide from the fort is optional but brings the buildings and their families to life; without one, the route takes about two hours. Finish with mahamri and biryani in town.
A loop from the fort and back, with time for tea on the way.
Walk the ramparts and museum, and pick up a guide here if you want one.
Balconies, carved doors and small shops along the Old Town's spine.
View the mosque from outside; non-Muslims are not usually admitted.
The harbour where dhows from Arabia once traded; a few wooden boats still tie up.
Return along the waterfront and stop for coffee, halwa or a cold juice.
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Fort Jesus is on Nkrumah Road, a short tuk-tuk ride from anywhere on the island.
Start before 10am or after 4pm; the lanes trap the heat at midday.
Ask before taking pictures, and during Friday prayers keep a respectful distance from the mosques.
Mombasa practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
