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A church cut into the top of a sandstone tower, reached by a barefoot climb and a narrow ledge above a 200-metre drop. Inside, frescoes of saints and apostles have stayed bright for centuries in the dry mountain air.
The Gheralta range west of Hawzen is a landscape of red sandstone towers and flat-topped ambas, and its cliffs hide dozens of rock-hewn churches. Abuna Yemata Guh is the one people come for.
The walk starts in the village of Megab, with a 30-minute approach across fields and up a rocky slope to the foot of the Guh pinnacles. Here shoes come off, because bare feet grip the smooth sandstone far better. Local scouts climb with you, showing every hand and foothold and spotting from above and below.
The crux is a 10-metre vertical pitch with a rope, followed by a ledge with a 200-metre drop beside it, and a short wooden bridge to the doorway. The church is dedicated to Abuna Yemata, one of the Nine Saints, and its domed ceilings are painted with apostles and saints in a style dated to around the 15th century.
It is not a technical climb, but the exposure is real. Anyone with vertigo should stop at the base or the first platform. Ask in Hawzen about a harness if you want extra security. Go early before the rock heats.
Short, steep and entirely in the hands of your scouts.
Buy your ticket at the village office and agree a fee with the scouts who will climb with you.
Walk through fields and up the rocky slope to the base of the towers.
Leave your shoes and scramble up smooth rock on friction holds.
Climb the 10 m pitch, then walk the ledge beside the 200 m drop to the bridge.
Duck through the doorway to see the frescoes; descend the same way, slowly.
Base yourself in Hawzen, about two hours from Mekelle. Megab is a short drive from town.
Pay the church ticket at Megab, plus a fee and tip for the scouts; have small birr notes.
Check current travel advisories for Tigray, and go with a local guide.
Mekelle practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences.
