Across the Bulak canal, the Tatar town that grew up after 1552 still stands: mosques, carved wooden houses and a lake with a boardwalk.
After the conquest of 1552, Tatars were moved out of the walled city to the far side of the Bulak canal. Their quarter along Lake Kaban became the centre of Tatar trade, scholarship and faith.
The Marjani Mosque, built in 1766–1770, was the first stone mosque allowed in Kazan after Catherine the Great's visit. It stayed open through the Soviet years.
Around it stand painted wooden merchants' houses with carved window frames. The Chak-chak Museum, in a 19th-century merchant's house, ends its tour with tea and honey sweets.
The Kaban embankment has boardwalks and fountains, with a light show on summer nights.
An afternoon, ending by the lake at dusk.
Walk south from the centre over the canal into the old quarter.
Visit outside prayer times; the madrasa stands alongside.
Carved window frames, gates and courtyards.
A merchant's home, a tour and a Tatar tea ceremony.
Boardwalks, fountains and, on summer nights, the light show.
About 15 minutes' walk south of Bauman Street, or a short taxi ride.
The Chak-chak Museum runs tours with tea; book a slot in summer.
Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
