The one village that does not touch the sea: a cluster of houses on a promontory a hundred metres up, reached by 382 steps or a little bus, with a single lane, a terrace over the water and the quietest nights on the coast.
Corniglia is the smallest of the five, a farming village rather than a fishing one, perched on its rock among vineyards.
From the station, the Lardarina stairway climbs 382 steps in 33 flights to the village; the park's shuttle bus is the alternative. At the top, Via Fieschi, the only real lane, runs from the church of San Pietro to the Santa Maria terrace, a belvedere hanging over the sea with views along the whole coast.
On the way, Alberto's gelateria serves basil and honey ice cream. There is no harbour; the rocky Marina di Corniglia cove, down more steps, is the only swim.
Because the day crowds stay down by the trains, Corniglia has the quietest nights of the five. It is also the most central base, with paths up into the hills and the vineyard path to Volastra and Manarola on the doorstep.
A short, steep visit that pays off in views.
Climb the zigzag stairway, or wait for the shuttle bus if your legs are tired.
See the Gothic church of San Pietro at the top of the village.
Walk the lane past small shops and stop for basil gelato at Alberto's.
Look along the coast to Manarola and Monterosso from the belvedere.
Take the steps down to the rocky cove for a swim before the climb back.
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By train; the hop-on boats do not stop here because there is no harbour.
The park bus runs between station and village; it is included with the Cinque Terre Card.
The vineyard path to Volastra and Manarola starts here and stays open when the coast path is closed.
Cinque Terre practical notes →Photographs from Wikimedia Commons and Pexels under their licences.
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