The panorama hike: a long climb from the ranger station through forest and open hillside to a bare ridge at 1,500 metres, with Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre lined up side by side across the valley and Lago Viedma stretching out behind you.
The lake hikes take you under the mountains; this one lifts you level with them. The name means "hill of the overturned fold", after the rock layers folded back on themselves in the slopes.
The trail begins at the ranger station at the village entrance and climbs steadily through lenga forest, then out onto open hillside where the view widens with every step: the village, the braided Río de las Vueltas and the long blue line of Lago Viedma. The final section is a bare ridge at around 1,500 metres, where Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre stand together across the valley with Laguna Toro and the ice cap to the south-west.
The ridge is fully exposed to the westerlies, and the rangers advise against it on gusty days. There is no water on the upper half, so carry everything. Fewer walkers than the lakes and, on a clear day, the better panorama.
One long, even climb, then back the same way.
Sign in and pick up the day's forecast at the visitor centre, then follow the signed path west behind it.
Switchbacks through southern beech, sheltered from the wind, with the last reliable streams.
Leave the trees for grass and scree, with the village, the river and Lago Viedma unrolling behind.
Pass the folded strata that give the hill its name on the way up to the ridge.
Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre side by side across the valley. Find a rock to shelter behind for lunch, then descend.
The ridge catches the full force of the westerlies. If you struggle to stand on the open hillside, turn back.
Fill up in the forest streams; carry at least two litres for the open half and the return.
Start by 9am; the ridge is often clearest late morning before afternoon cloud builds.
Calafate & Chaltén practical notes →Wikimedia Commons photographs are used under their licences; Pexels photographs under the Pexels licence.
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